01 / ABOUT THE PLACE
About this place
Glossy slices of fish, marinated in island soy sauce with a sharp kick of green chilli: bekko-zuke is a memorable way to begin a meal at miyakejima in Ueno 3-chome. Open the menu and you’ll find island dishes that evoke the sea breezes of the Izu Islands, despite the restaurant’s setting in central Tokyo. The marinade draws out the fish’s rich, silky flavour, making it a satisfying accompaniment to drinks. For a classic finish, order the fresh-fish bekko-don: enjoy half as a rice bowl, then have the rest as ochazuke, with tea poured over rice and toppings.
Seafood and snacks to complement the island spirits
The extensive Tokyo Island Spirits selection is a highlight, with shochu from across the islands. Look for Gojinka from Oshima, Shimajiman from Niijima, Moriwaka from Kozushima, aged in oak casks, and Nasa-kejima from Hachijojima. There is also Aochu Ikenosawa from Aogashima, a bottle rarely seen on the mainland. For a glass with a distinctive aroma or sweetness, try seasonal seafood such as simmered or salt-grilled red sea bream from Chiba, or Saikyo-miso-grilled longtail red snapper from Hachijojima. Deep-fried greeneye from Choshi, tempura ashitaba leaves and an ashitaba green-juice highball round out the menu with the hearty flavours of straightforward ingredients.
A relaxed evening at the spacious counter
The dining room is non-smoking throughout, clean and welcoming, with gentle lighting that lends itself to an unhurried meal. The counter has plenty of depth, making it comfortable to drop in alone for a drink or share dishes and conversation with someone close to you. The restaurant is open from late afternoon into the evening; booking ahead is a sensible choice for the popular dinner period. The seasonal kamameshi, rice cooked in a pot, takes time to prepare, so ordering it in advance lets you settle in with a few snacks and drinks while you wait.
